The dwarf flag acara is one of the aquarium hobby's most overlooked cichlids, combining peaceful behaviour with fascinating parental care and surprising hardiness. Here's everything you need to know about keeping, feeding and breeding Laetacara curviceps.
Laetacara curviceps has never enjoyed the same level of popularity as fellow South American dwarf cichlids like Mikrogeophagus ramirezi or the various Apistogramma species. However, those who keep, or have kept, this delightful cichlid often wonder why. Combining an uncommonly peaceful temperament with subtle beauty, fascinating parental care and a forgiving nature, this charming species is one of the most underrated cichlids in the hobby.
Keep reading to find out more about this lovely little dwarf cichlid and how to care for it. You never know, it might just tempt you into setting up a tank for them in the near future.
What's In The Name?
The most common name used for Laetacara curviceps is the dwarf flag acara, at least this is the name I see them sold under in shops most often. However, two other names are used for them. The first is smiling acara, thanks to the rather happy expression etched onto their faces. In fact, their scientific name literally means "happy cichlid". Both of these names relate to their facial markings that look like a smiling face. The other name used, although I haven't seen them labelled as such in shops for a long time, is the sheepshead acara.
There are other Laetacara species that pop up in the hobby. Laetacara dorsigera is probably the second most common after curviceps. They are a similarly sized, equally chilled out cichlid that tolerates cooler water than its relative. The other species in the genus are much less commonly seen in local fish shops.
All photos by Shutterstock unless otherwise stated
Dwarf Flag Acara Fact File
Scientific name: Laetacara curviceps
Size: Up to 5cm (2")
Origin: Amazon River, Brazil
Habitat: Clear waters filled with aquatic plants and leaf litter
Tank size: 60x30x30cm (24x12x12")
Water requirements: Soft and acidic to neutral water; 5-7.5 pH, 0-15°H
Temperature: 22-28°C (72-83°F)
Temperament: Peaceful community species, but can become slightly territorial when breeding. Conspecifics may bicker from time to time but it never usually amounts to anything serious
Feeding: Wholly unfussy omnivore, offer a variety flakes, pellets, live and frozen foods
Availability & cost: Once very common, but less often seen in shops despite still being availabe, prices from around £6.50
Wild Habitats of the Dwarf Flag Acara
Laetacara curviceps occurs in areas of clear, slow flowing waters in the lower Amazon River basin, Brazil. They are often found in habitats that feature both aquatic plants and leaf litter, meaning a biotope inspired aquarium display has a lot of potential.
Myriophyllum, Eichhornia, and Cabomba species of plants were noted from one dwarf flag acara habitat. A few Myriophyllum species (M. aquaticum and M. heterophyllum) are invasive and banned in the UK, but there are plenty of other species in the genus with some being perfectly safe and readily available in the UK hobby.
Also, the water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) is currently not permitted in the UK, although it was deemed unable to establish in the UK and therefore not actually a threat back in 2023. The Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association are pushing for water hyacinths to be delisted as an invasive species. For now, you'll need to opt for one of the various other floating plants available in the hobby as a substitute.
The water is usually clear, acidic, and fairly soft. A pH of 5.2, a conductivity of 10µS/cm, and a temperature of 26°C (79°F) was recorded in one of their natural habitats, although captive specimens will tolerate a pH up to 7.5 just fine.
Aquarium Requirements
Accurately replicating the natural habitat of Laetacara curviceps isn't essential for success, especially if you're keeping captive-bred specimens. However, there are several elements from their wild environment that are well worth incorporating, even in a more traditional community aquarium.
Of course, I'd always recommend creating a more natural setup if you can, but I understand it isn't everyone's cup of tea. Either way, here are a few key components to consider when aquascaping for these delightful dwarf cichlids.
Substrate
A soft sand is the ideal substrate for dwarf flag acara, as it is for most cichlids. While they aren't enthusiastic sand sifters like Geophagus, they will still pick through it while foraging.
A dark sand is an excellent choice. It recreates the subdued appearance of the leaf litter and decomposing botanicals found in their natural habitat without you having to include them in the aquarium. Dark substrates also help bring out the fish's natural colours, making them particularly striking. That said, a classic beige or white sand is still perfectly suitable, as are most aquarium plant substrates.
Hardscape
For aesthetic reasons, I'd recommend a wood-dominated hardscape. Branches, such as manzanita, and roots, such as spider wood or redmoor wood, create a wonderfully natural look while also providing shaded areas for the acara to retreat to. Finish the layout with a few caves using large seed pods, short lengths of PVC pipe, coconut shells, or terracotta flower pots.
In reality, though, almost any hardscape will work provided the aquarium is well decorated. Most aquarium-safe woods are suitable, as are many rocks and stones. Just avoid calcareous rocks, such as Seiryu stone, Geo Rock, or ocean rock, if you're aiming to maintain softer, more acidic water, as they can gradually increase hardness and pH. Even artificial ornaments can be used successfully, provided the fish have plenty of cover and at least a couple of sheltered spots that could serve as spawning sites.
Plants
Adding plenty of greenery around the hardscape is highly recommended. Cabomba and Myriophyllum species are biotope correct choices and help recreate the appearance of the fish's natural habitat. Dense planting also provides additional security, encouraging the fish to settle more quickly and display more natural behaviour.
Myriophyllum sp. "Guyana"
That said, almost any aquarium plant can be used. Just bear in mind that the fish may occasionally uproot the odd stem while foraging or preparing a spawning site. Cryptocoryne, Amazon swords, Vallisneria, Java ferns, Anubias, hairgrass, and floating plants all make excellent choices. I'd simply avoid species that demand very intense lighting, as dwarf flag acara generally appreciate more subdued conditions.
In fact, they'll even thrive alongside artificial plants, pictured above.
Top Tip – Finish with Botanicals
A scattering of leaf litter across the foreground is an easy way to complete the display. Botanicals not only create a wonderfully natural appearance, but as they decompose they become home to a diverse community of microscopic organisms. These provide a valuable supplementary food source for your fish and are particularly beneficial if you're raising fry naturally in the aquarium.
Tank Size and Equipment
We've covered how to decorate the tank for dwarf flag acara, but what tank should you use?
Growing to roughly 5cm (2") in length, these definitely fit the requirements of being a dwarf cichlid. As such, a standard 60x30x30cm (24x12x12") tank will suffice nicely for a pair. You could potentially even use a 45cm (18") aquarium for breeding purposes. Equipment needn't be fancy either.
Filtration can be as simple as an air driven sponge filter, as complicated as a sump system, or anything in between. The key is to not have too much flow, these fish come from sheltered spots in the wild and will not enjoy having to constantly swim against strong currents. Ensure the filter is cycled before introducing the acaras, as while they don't like flow, they do need clean water.
Lighting we already touched on: subdued is better than bright for these guys. The LEDs that often come supplied with an off-the-shelf aquarium are usually sufficient to grow easy, low-tech plants and provide enjoyable viewing. Ultimately, the lighting is more for the benefit of the aquarist (and the plants) than the fish themselves. A sunrise and sunset setting will certainly be useful if available, as it will reduce the sudden changes helping to prevent unnecessary stress for your cichlids.
A Heater is a must for these fish, unless they're in a heated fish room. They're truly tropical, with an acceptable range between 22 and 28°C (72-83°F). My advice is to buy the best heater your budget allows. They're such a critical piece of equipment that can go drastically wrong. This is why, even when buying a second hand aquarium, I'd always replace the heater.
Water Parameters
Much of this information has already been woven into the sections above, but because water chemistry is such an important aspect of fishkeeping, it's worth summarising it here for easy reference.
Most of the dwarf flag acaras that you'll encounter will be captive bred, being more tolerant to a range of water chemistries than their wild relatives. If you are lucky enough to find wild caught specimens, you'll have greater success by maintaining soft, acidic water that more closely replicates what they experienced in their natural habitat.
Otherwise, stick within the following ranges and you should succeed with this fairly hardy, and beginner friendly, dwarf cichlid:
- pH: 5-7.5
- Hardness: 0-15°H
- Temperature: 22-28°C (72-83°F)
Feeding Dwarf Flag Acara
Laetacara curviceps are incredibly unfussy when it comes to food. They'll accept most common aquarium fare, including flakes, granules, frozen food and live food.
In the wild, they spend much of their time picking through leaf litter and the substrate in search of tiny invertebrates, insect larvae, crustaceans and other morsels. They likely also consume some plant matter during foraging. Replicating this varied diet in the aquarium will help keep them in peak condition and encourage natural behaviour.
Photo by Gabor Horvath
A good quality sinking micro pellet should form the staple of their diet, supplemented with a variety of frozen and live foods. Bloodworm, Daphnia, mosquito larvae, brine shrimp and Cyclops are all readily accepted and can help to condition breeding pairs. Adding the occasional spirulina- or algae-based flake, or spirulina enriched brine shrimp will help to replicate their natural diet, although this should not be their staple.
Like many cichlids, they can quickly learn that their keeper means food and may enthusiastically beg for food. Resist the temptation to overfeed, however, as uneaten food will quickly degrade water quality. Offer only what they can comfortably consume within a couple of minutes, feeding a couple times a day.
Behaviour and Compatible Tank Mates
Many fishkeepers prefer the activity and movement of a bustling community aquarium over a tank housing just a pair of dwarf cichlids. If that's the case, you'll be pleased to know that Laetacara curviceps has plenty of compatible tank mates to choose from.
This is one of the most peaceful cichlids in the hobby, with territorial behaviour usually limited to defending a spawning site while breeding (much like the ever-popular kribensis). As with any fish, though, if a tank mate is small enough to fit in its mouth, there's always a chance it could become a meal. Tiny species such as chilli rasboras may therefore be at risk, but fish measuring around 2 cm (0.8") or larger are generally safe.
Photo by Alex Bell
In fact, you're far more likely to encounter problems when mixing dwarf flag acara with larger, more boisterous species than you are when keeping them alongside peaceful shoaling fish. Small tetras, pencilfish, rasboras, hatchetfish, and similar species all make excellent companions. Their constant activity also acts as a confidence boost for the acara, as the presence of active dither fish signals that no predators are nearby.
Peaceful bottom dwellers also work well. Corydoras catfish are an excellent choice, although they may occasionally receive the odd chase if they wander too close to a spawning site. Small Loricariids, such as bristlenose plecs, can also be kept successfully, but it's worth remembering that many suckermouth catfish have a habit of raiding cichlid nests after dark. If you're hoping to breed your dwarf flag acara, you may achieve better success by keeping the pair on their own or with a small group of dither fish.
Breeding Dwarf Flag Acara
If raising a brood of cichlid fry is your goal, you'll be pleased to hear that breeding Laetacara curviceps is relatively straightforward. They are biparental substrate spawners, with the female depositing up to 300 eggs on a suitable surface within the aquarium. This may be a flat stone, the roof of a cave, a broad leaf, a seed pod, or even the bare base of the aquarium itself.
Photo by Gabor Horvath
Once the eggs have been laid and fertilised, the female typically remains with the clutch, carefully fanning the eggs to ensure they receive a constant supply of fresh, oxygen-rich water while removing any that fail to develop. Meanwhile, the male patrols the surrounding territory, driving away any potential threats to his family.
The eggs usually hatch after around two days, with the fry becoming free-swimming a further two to three days later, although this is influenced by water temperature. At this stage, the fry can be fed newly hatched Artemia nauplii, vinegar eels, or microworms. As they grow, gradually increase the size of the foods offered.
Perhaps the greatest reward comes from watching the parents care for their young. Both adults remain attentive long after the fry become free-swimming, herding them around the aquarium, defending them from perceived threats and guiding them to suitable feeding areas. It's this exemplary parental care, combined with their peaceful temperament and the subtle but beautiful colours, that makes L. curviceps one of the most enjoyable dwarf cichlids to breed.
Top Tip – Don't Be Too Tidy
If you're hoping to raise fry in the parents' aquarium, resist the urge to siphon every corner spotless. A few botanicals, patches of biofilm, and infusoria growing on leaves and wood provide a constant source of microscopic food between meals, helping young fry thrive during their first few weeks.
Final Thoughts
The dwarf flag acara may never achieve the popularity of Mikrogeophagus ramirezi or the countless Apistogramma species, but perhaps that's part of its charm. Those who do keep Laetacara curviceps often discover one of the most rewarding dwarf cichlids in the hobby: peaceful enough for a community aquarium, hardy enough for beginners, yet fascinating enough to keep even experienced fishkeepers captivated.
Their subtle colours may not demand attention from across the room, but spend a little time watching a pair interact and you'll soon appreciate why they have such a loyal following. From their inquisitive personalities and gentle nature to their exemplary parental care, they're a species that rewards patience and observation rather than dazzling you with flashy colours alone.
If you're looking for a cichlid that's easy to care for, full of character, and a genuine pleasure to watch, it's difficult to think of a better choice. Hopefully, this article has convinced you to give the humble dwarf flag acara the recognition it deserves.
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