This is a stunning dwarf cichlid that hails from dark tinted waters of Brazil. They aren't the easiest to keep but they are worth the challenge.
When browsing the dwarf cichlids at your local fish shop, you might be lucky and encounter a species that looks a little different. This is not your usual Apistogramma, nor is it a Pelvicachromis. This beauty is Ivanacara adoketa, formerly known as Nannacara adoketa.
They are a little chunkier than the other dwarf cichlids, with the potential to reach 12cm (4.7"). It took many years of visiting aquarium stores until I finally saw a zebra acara in the flesh. However, lately, they seem to be appearing for sale more often.
With such eye catching patterns, they will definitely be tempting aquarists unfamiliar with this species care requirements. Therefore, it felt logical that we should provide a complete care guide to help anyone willing to part with their cash. In this article, we outline where they come from, what size aquarium they need, their care requirements and breeding tips.
Zebra acara guarding territory - Photo by Alex Bell
Natural habitat of Ivanacara adoketa
This beautiful cichlid hails from the upper and middle Rio Negro. The habitats in the region vary greatly throughout the year in response to changing seasons.
In the dry season, zebra acara seek refuge in rainforest streams and small rivers. Here the waters flow gently, stained dark with tannins. The canopy and overhanging marginal plants shade the water and only a little light enters the water. The pH can be as low as 3, with next to no water hardness and aquatic plants are generally absent.
Typical Zebra acara blackwater habitat - Photo by Shutterstock
The substrate is comprised of inert sand, enriched with organic matter from the decaying leaves and branches that sit upon it. These also provide shelter for the cichlids.
During the wet season, these streams flood, and the water levels rise by several metres. This allows the fishes access to the flooded forest floor. Here terrestrial materials and insect cause a bloom of life. This provides plenty of food for both adults and any fry they may produce during this season.
Setting up a tank for zebra acara
This species, given their slightly larger size, need larger aquariums than many other dwarf cichlids. A 90x30cm (36x12") footprint will work well for a pair, giving space for the fish to retreat to if needed. Larger aquariums are best, especially when housed with other species.
When filling the tank, you'll need a source of water that is incredibly soft. Reverse osmosis water is ideal, as it removes almost all the salts giving you close to pure water. Rainwater can also work if you are in a rural setting, but always take caution as contamination can occur.
By starting with water with negligible carbonate hardness, the pH becomes much easier to manipulate. The weakly acidic tannins released by botanicals will be able to lower the pH mimicking the conditions of the Rio Negro. Wild specimens do best in a pH below 5.5 but captive bred fish can be more tolerant. Even so, aim to keep the pH at 6.5 or lower.
When choosing décor, you must ensure that the sand and any rocks or décor are inert. Stones that contain calcium carbonate, like ocean rock and Seiryu will slowly raise your hardness and pH. Decorate a soft sandy substrate with aquarium safe wood, handfuls of leaf litter and some cave like seed pods for a natural looking aquarium. These will also leach tannins giving a nice blackwater aquarium look.
Adding handfuls of leaves helps to create a natural environment - photo by Alex Bell
Behaviour and compatibility
Males are fairly territorial towards one another, so unless in large aquariums it is best to keep a pair. You may need to buy a group of juveniles and let this happen naturally if pairs are not obvious in the shop tank.
Juvenile Ivanacara adoketa starting to colour up in store tank - Photo by Alex Bell
Males tend to have elongated dorsal and anal fins, and when in breeding condition develop the zebra like markings. However, females may adopt a darkened colour when breeding or stressed too. Otherwise, female zebra acara usually display a more pink colouration and these differences can help you pick out pairs.
Intraspecific aggression is not limited to male vs male though. Males sometimes show aggression towards the female and vice versa and this is why a larger footprint is needed even for breeding. Larger aquariums with plenty of breaks in lines of sight will help ensure whichever fish is being picked on has somewhere to retreat to.
The care requirements of this species means they are unsuitable for community aquariums. However, you can keep some tank mates alongside them in a loose biotope, or communitope, aquarium. Any tank mates must also thrive in the same water conditions, and ideally stay out of the cichlids way when breeding.
Related article: How to set up an amazon biotope - with play sand.
Cardinal tetras appreciate similar water conditions - Photo by Alex Bell
Small characins like cardinal tetras and pencilfish work well and pose less threat to any fry should breeding occur. Although, plenty of space must be available for them to keep out of the way when the acaras are breeding. Small catfishes, like those formerly known as corydoras, are usually best avoided. They seem to not always understand the acara's territorial boundaries and can receive a bit of a beating.
Despite their aggressive tendencies, zebra acara can also be quite shy and easily intimidated. Therefore, they don't thrive alongside other cichlids, or larger more boisterous species.
Feeding Ivanacara adoketa
Wild caught specimens may take time to accept aquarium foods although they aren't usually that fussy. In the wild they typically feed on small invertebrates including aquatic crustaceans, insects and their larvae and other zooplankton. Therefore, the provision of a mature leaf litter bed can help the fishes settle. Cyclops and small worms colonise these habitats in the aquarium and can provide food for fussy fishes while they adapt to frozen and prepared foods.
Blister packs of frozen food are a great way to provide a varied diet - Photo by Shutterstock
Once settled, offer a mix of frozen and live foods like bloodworm, blackworm, mosquito larvae and Daphnia. You will likely be able to wean them onto prepared foods fairly easily. Captive bred individuals will likely accept these foods straight away.
Zebra acara breeding project
A change of colour, with their striking breeding dress becoming visible, signals your pair are getting ready to spawn. Feeding plenty of quality live foods will help get the fish into breeding condition.
If you see a lot of aggression and it never results in a spawning you may not have a compatible pair. This is more common when we hobbyist pair fish together rather than letting a group of juveniles pair off naturally. They may grow to accept one another, but you may need to swap out one of the fish and try a new pairing if this continues to be a problem.
Pairs tend to lay their amber eggs in caves or on flat areas of the hardscape, and both of the parents show parental care to the brood. Provide plenty of options, with PVC pipes, ceramic caves, coconut shells and other seed pods and let them choose their preferred spawning site.
Acidic water with negligible hardness and conductivity is needed for successful egg development, so if you repeatedly get unsuccessful spawns this may be the reason. Test the water and try lowering the hardness with some pure RO water changes.
Once the fry are free swimming, offer small live foods like rotifers, vinegar eels, microworms and baby brine shrimp. The microorganisms amongst the leaf litter and botanicals will also be providing supplemental foods in between feedings as well.
Colours of the zebra acara darken during breeding - Photo by Shutterstock
Zebra acara factfile
Scientific name: Ivanacara adoketa
Size: Males up to 12cm (4.7”), females typically stay smaller
Origin: Middle and upper Rio Negro, Brazil
Habitat: Slow moving, strained, streams and flooded forests
Tank size: 90x30x30cm (36x12x12”).
Water requirements: Soft and acidic water with a pH below 6.5 and negligible hardness required for breeding.
Temperature: 22-29°C (72-84°F)
Temperament: Forms monogamous pairs, and can be territorial towards each other. Will become aggressive when spawning and protecting fry.
Feeding: Naturally feeds on small invertebrates. Replicate this by feeding plenty of frozen and live foods such as Daphnia, Cyclops, insect larvae and brine shrimp.
Availability & cost: Rare but popping up more often in specialist stores. Expect to pay from £60 a pair for captive bred fish up to £120 a pair for wild caught specimens.